CraftBot 3 3D Printer Review – Heavy Duty IDEX Beast

Today we’re checking out the CraftBot 3! A huge, heavily built 3D Printer with Independent Dual Extrusion (IDEX) from CraftUnique, Hungary.

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46 thoughts on “CraftBot 3 3D Printer Review – Heavy Duty IDEX Beast

  1. So a sheet of tempered glass on my cetus printer bed has revolutionized the finish on the bottom of all my prints now. What are your thoughts on potentially using a glass sheet on the Craftbot3?

  2. Isn't the whole point of dual extrusion to combine 2 types of plastics, to expand the possibilities of what you can print? As in one solid and one flexible for example. Or for example use the cheapest spool for building supports, and save the nice filament for the actual print.

  3. The independent dual extruders are nice, but can't really see why should I throw 2k out of the window for this when I can get multiple printers for that price and they produce the same great quality.
    I would rather get 3 Prusas for that money.

  4. I’ve watched a few of your videos now – but I just have one question: What exactly is a “PrintAh” and where do you get one?

  5. Hey Angus, commenting on you not liking multi-color prints; it has its uses but what matters most is multi-material 3D printing. You can produce so many functional parts when you can print multiple materials at the same time and fuse them directly in the 3D printer.

  6. I'd rather buy 4 ender 3 pros and double the output of this unit and still be 50% cheaper. I didn't see any improvement on print quality on this. In fact, I thought some of those printed objects looked a bit rough.

  7. Sorry to brake your bubble, but you would need to heat that plate to point that half of the country is on fire to get it expand enought to hit your extruder (unless your Z height is allready completely off)

  8. I seriously considered this before buying my MakerGear M3-ID. If it had mesh leveling, I would have gone with this Craftbot.

  9. I do love my Craftbot2. It has the older TI drivers, but I could buy the new controller to quiet it down. I use the removable/interchangeable bed all the time for different interface materials (Kapton, PEI, Buildtak) as I routinely print with PETG, PLA, ePC and ePA-CF all of which like different interface materials. I especially like the fact I on my CB2 you can easily buy the top and door, and fully enclose it and filter the exhaust. They do sell the top and door for the CB3 ( so it can be easily fully enclosed. My only real question is: Did they improve the cantilevered bed flex? Make that 2: Is the Wifi fast enough to upload a print now?

  10. This price range, 2019, and no automatic bed levelling or flexible build plate? I'll hold on my Prusa mk3 for a bit longer while waiting for the perfect IDEX printer to appear on the market.
    Once you have a flexible build plate you don't want to go back to destroying your build plate trying to get parts off.

  11. I remember the prusa i3 mark III had an optical mouse sensor to measure if the filament was moving. I'm not sure if it could detect jams but i see no reason why it shouldn't do it.

  12. How can they stil sell printers without autolevel and flex bed? I want a reliable and hussle free printer and this sounds like a leveling nightmare and a lot of trouble to remove the prints.

  13. Too bad you can't buy the improved controller board as a spare part, to get the older printers to quiet down. The mechanics of the older printers are already pretty rock solid, so there is really no need to replace them just to get the better control board.

    You probably could hax some other board in there with improved stepper drivers, but then you'd loose that very nice user interface on the front touch panel…

  14. Are there A-I learning 3-d printers that can adjust failed prints and mistakes so giving them challenges to print make the simpler projects is easier and future products made faster? If not i call dibs

  15. Hopefully they will offer a tweaked version is Slic3r or Cura in the future. I don't think I would like using a proprietary slicer just for that machine. Still, it looks solid and I think the price is reasonable for what you get.

  16. Still prefer my Formbot T-Rex 3.0 IDEX. It can do exactly what the CraftBot does, even better, and even has auto mesh bed levelling.
    3D printers made in the US and Europe are so over-rated and ridiculously priced. I will admit the Formbot does not have an enclosed chamber, but who can't make one if you need it at all.

  17. the palete2 i think will switch to another filament to finish a print if you have a filament runout. but its an addon not a full printer

  18. I got into 3D printing with an original Ultimaker Kit. Those were fun days. Then I got introduced to AirWolf 3D Bought an Axiom (fully enclosed printer) and then introduced to Wolf Bite. Amazing stuff. No I do not work for the company just an end user with a 3D printer that is now going on 5 years old. Still doing some amazing prints. Wolf Bite is Airwolf's Solution to bed adhesion And it works amazing. On glass that is. I wonder if you could use it on this machine. They sell it on Amazon and when the bed cools it will freak you out the first few times. It cracks and pops (the print off the bed) and it comes off VERY clean . So seriously Would be interesting to see if it would work with this printer.
    They have multiple versions for different filaments. I did see it on tested (way after I was using it) and it was one of their top products of the year. But its worth a try as even if you cannot remove the print you can run water over the bed and it will come off with no force. (so far I have not experienced that but I mainly print with ABS and PTEG.)

  19. the BNC3D does not have bed levelling and costs more, so not sure why everyone has latched onto the lack of a bed level sensor? Once the plate is heated up and manually levelled it stays that way

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